Sevare

Friday, July 25, 2008

Babo Toure, a bronze caster came to the gardens of Hotel Byblos for a demonstration this afternoon. He, of course, brought all his products to display and sell. He spent a good hour making two figures out of beeswax, demonstrating the process before the rest of the mold is applied and the bronze poured inside. He also showed us the various methods of antiquing the bronze to give it an aged patina with sulfur and a particular kind of leaf. It was an incredible process to watch the image come to life in material form.

I was more than happy to browse his creations and even picked out a few, a seated Dogon with a Kanaga mask for me, a man with a walking stick and a fabulous leather satchel over his chest, and a nice size Akua-ba pendant. I bargained from twenty-five thousand Malian francs to twenty and I guess he felt he overcharged me and presented me with a present as well, a small frog gold weight. From what I have gleaned from other students who made purchases I certainly seemed to get the best deal for the number of purchases, plus a rather lovely gift.

I have ordered spaghetti for dinner, avec fromage, with cheese, because apparently you have to make the distinction. I am looking forward to some pasta for a change and hope it at least satisfies my taste buds.

Overall, the day was pretty relaxing and it has helped to prepare me for the next several busy days before Dogon country. Tomorrow is a boat ride to a potter’s village and then a visit to a blacksmith. I am assuming the following day we will finally get a chance to visit the leatherworker.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

The weather was extremely cool this morning, with a wonderful zephyr that seemed to have a certain repartee with the mass of foliage in the garden. It was an enjoyable breakfast of baguettes, butter, and mango preserves. I had a cup of tea and, sadly, had to get a Sprite and baguette for Stephanie who seems to be fighting a fever and diarrhea.

Without my companion for the day I paired up with Zach and we stopped at the market for water, Lebanese apples, cheese, bread and Pringles. It was a short drive to the boats where we boarded another small craft for our forty-five minute cruise on the muddy Niger.

I think there are certain days you just don’t feel capable of dealing with the children, like turning off and on a light switch. Today was one of those days. As soon as we docked outside the village in the slightly muggy temperate late morning I was pestered, without even a Bon jour, or Sava, but “Bic!” With a downward glance I trudged the incredibly long distance into the village, avoiding donkey droppings and the grubby hands of grabbing children along the way. I’m not interested in taking the photo of a child who says, “Photo,” and wants to take the camera from your grasp, just to ask for a bon bon or Bic afterwards. I think I have become a little disillusioned with villages that have been influenced by tourism in such a manner.

The children today were extremely pushy and fought with each other vying for attention. After watching the potter, the blacksmith, and the jeweler practice and demonstrate their skills for four hours, all amazing processes, we headed back towards the river and our boat. Two small kids, very quietly walked beside me for a moment holding each other’s hands and then both taking my right hand. They each managed to grasp rather tightly several fingers each, their short little legs making it difficult for them to keep a brisk pace. Thus, with my heavy messenger bag on my right shoulder and my camera in my left hand, I trudged forward, quickly losing pace with the rest of the group. It almost felt as if I were dragging them along at one point.

Finally, we reached the river. They really were sweet though, just talking to each other, never speaking directly to me but just laughing, giggling, and smiling. I boarded the boat and was soon surrounded by kids with mud-covered, mucky river water on their hands, grabbing at my arms and bag for various items. It was a welcome relief to finally distance ourselves from the shore where we promptly found sanitizers and began to enjoy our lunch.

We returned to the hotel around four and the remainder of the afternoon was at our leisure. Zach, Steph, and I talked for quite a while during the afternoon and soon it was time to head down and order dinner.

Tomorrow an indigo dyer is coming in the morning, class is at eight thirty, and a visit to the leatherworker is at eleven. Afterwards I assume the remainder of the day is at leisure so we can pack and prepare for our trip to Sanga.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

This morning a woman from Guinea arrived at the hotel with her indigo. Barely finished with my baguette and tea I leapt out of my seat and hurried out the front gate to see her twenty pieces of fabric. Women dyers sell in this fashion before taking the remainder of their textiles to market; oftentimes good dyers never see their fabric make it to market because they are sold out beforehand.

I settled on three lovely pieces of indigo and she convincingly pushed a fourth, “For your brother,” she said, of which I have none, and so I purchased the lot for twenty thousand Malian francs. Once I had made my purchases the word was out with the rest of the group and everyone else slowly trickled out, leaving her with only six or eight pieces left to sell before heading back to Guinea.

After breakfast it was time for a class session on the Dogon and then a trip to a leatherworker. The leatherworkers seemed to think we were only there to buy and it took quite a bit of translation to get the artisans to demonstrate their process. It was incredible to witness the supple goat leather made into key chains and small knives and incised with various patterns.

Once the process was complete we browsed their merchandise and I settled on one piece, not for myself, and it is actually a special order which will be delivered to the hotel Wednesday night. We ventured back through the labyrinth of streets in the blazing sun, children following us like flies and upon arrival home at the Byblos promptly ordered a Coke and poullet rotie for lunch.

The remainder of the afternoon is at our leisure to prepare for our trip to Sanga tomorrow. We will be staying at a Campement, basically a room with two beds, a cold shower and toilet, and no air conditioning. Once again, after the trip we will return to the Byblos and the thought of returning to our small room, once so unfamiliar and unnerving, is a satisfying notion. It is amazing how this place in its aged patinas, dirt, small bugs crawling on the beds, and the garden swarming with agama lizards can seem so restful, a pleasant respite from the outside world. The Lebanese family is incredible and it feels like a home even with the awkward language barrier. I wish there were some way of making a small gesture to them after our final stay here, perhaps a little additional cash. The only thing to make this place perfect would be the pool at the Hotel Independence and since I have not enjoyed a pool up to this point I intend to make it a priority.