Heading Home

Wednesday, August 6, 2008 – Thursday, August 7, 2008

This morning I expectantly ventured to the main lobby for a gourmet feast, or what is comparably a delightful spread in contrast to the other hotel accommodations. Instead, I was greeted with empty platters and a shortage of glasses. I opted for the only available alternative, sugary croissants and slices of ham which I made into a small sandwich, and proceeded to gluttonously devour four more of my creations.

After breakfast I fulfilled the laborious process of dragging my luggage across the entirety of the hotels densely landscaped grounds to the bus to be transported to the Air France office for an early check-in. Considering the building isn’t too horribly far from the hotel it is a rather pleasant process and allows you to alleviate the hassle of check-in during the long hours prior to departure.

Back at the hotel it didn’t take long for me to replace my clothes with my giraffe bikini and cover-up and head to the pool. I didn’t need to wait long before jumping into the water. As a matter of fact, I barely spent time outside the cool currents. Perhaps more than a half an hour had passed and it was two o’clock. Steph and I trekked to the hotel restaurant to order our final meal before the ever-so-appetizing-and-delicious food provided by Air France. I opted for poulet de Christiane and riz along with bacon, onion, and carrots. It was absolutely incredible, the sauce perhaps the best lemon and white wine combination I’ve ever tasted. Afterwards, I ordered crepe au sucre. Steph was running low on francs and so I ended up treating her to lunch, tagliatelli carbonara and chocolate ice cream. It was terrific to spend my final meal conversing and laughing with my roomie and friend for life.

Following lunch I could hardly restrain the temptation to use a French keyboard one last time and checked my emails – the price three times that of internet in Sevare. With a few thousand francs remaining I thought the gift shop would provide the perfect opportunity to spend the remainder of my finances. I discovered the perfect final gifts for a few friends and with that ultimate purchase had budgeted every last franc.

After a final shower we gathered to embark on the jalopy old bus. Before boarding a glorious rainbow appeared in the overcast sky, the combination of clouds and visible sunlight like some elaborate pastiche or oil painting at dusk.

At the airport security was entirely lenient and Jerry and Mary Jo accompanied us to the final security point before we said farewell. It was heartbreaking to give Jerry a small embrace and thank him for the opportunity of visiting Mali and his support especially when I was confined to the Byblos with sun poisoning.

Two hours remained before our flight and already exhausted I couldn’t wait to board. The five and a half hours on the flight from Bamako to Paris were the most terrifying hours of my entire life. Heavy turbulence and lightning had the plane tumultuously shaking and losing altitude. Steph and I clutched each other’s hands at one point just praying for the trembling to stop.

Landing in Paris was both a blessing and a curse. A morning thunderstorm plagued the runway where we had to sprint to a bus to be transported to the main terminal. It was a long ride and then an equally long walk to our departure gate. The delay had us arrive with a minute to spare before boarding and soon we were once again aboard an aircraft with eight and a half hours to New York. In a window seat once again I was able to use the side of the craft to rest my head and fell asleep for several hours.

I was restless and expectant to reach New York but once I arrived it was a chaotic confusion of customs, claiming luggage, and bidding farewell to friends. I had to check-in at American Airlines and go through security and soon I was on my way for my final two hours of flight back to Chicago. With my Chex Mix and Starburst I snacked merrily on the plane trying to pass the time rapidly. I could barely contain my anticipation as I retrieved my luggage, said goodbye to Patti, and hoped in a taxi. The ride was an hour and a half but once I turned the corner onto Taylor Street I knew I had reached home.

Within the next week and half I plan on reflecting on my time in Mali and the countless memories and experiences of my four weeks in the country. Check back for my final brief posting and a link to my photography.

Bamako Bound

Monday, August 4, 2008

The early departure from the Hotel Independence in Segou had everyone transporting their luggage out to the bus to be loaded and saying goodbye to Ousmane, our guide for the entire trip. He refused to open his thank you card, which included a nice tip everyone pulled together, and smiled almost sadly, squinting his eyes in the sun to hide any small tears. The money he makes from guiding the program for Drew every year is enough to buy rice for his village for more than half a year. It’s incredible to think we have such a huge impact on his life from only three weeks of work.

The drive to Bamako went by rather quickly as I slept a long period of the drive. Once inside the city the congestion was dreadful and without any current of air the temperature in the bus reached an extremely unbearable strength. With room forty-eight at the Mande, this time on the second floor, we were welcomed with a larger room and bath and no roly-poly bugs by the hundreds, geckos, or a frog, yet, in the shower drain.

Meals are more expensive in the city, but almost well worth the additional cost. My tagliatelli carbonara was the most amazing pasta with chunks of ham and parsley seasoning and an egg yolk right in the middle. For dessert, Tessa, Steph, and I split a strawberry ice cream which certainly fulfilled just about every sugary sweet treat fantasy imaginable.

Many students have wanted to change over a little more money, especially since meals are more expensive, and I too after my shopping deluge at the bogolan dyers thought I should change a little more currency to Malian francs. I don’t want to waste away my last few days in the country and I certainly want to make sure that if any unexpected treasures were to surface I have the means to pay for them. If I manage to have extra loot there is a rather nice gift shop here at the Mande where I can blow the rest.

After an hour at the local market where I finally purchased my Fulani earrings I was determined to swim in the pool, my first in the entire trip. I spotted a rather lovely and unique Akua-ba at the market but to my dismay it had a large chunk missing from the disk-like head. While completely original and quite attractive with its coloration I just couldn’t imagine a damaged fertility doll amidst the beautiful collection already on display in our apartment. To my further disappointment, the rainy season had other plans and a storm quickly began to obscure the sky. We are free the remainder of the night and have class at nine o’clock tomorrow morning. Perhaps after class and before our afternoon visit to the Bamana I can take a dip.

I am looking forward to seeing what the plate du jour is for dinner, which always comes with some small appetizer and a dessert. We are back in the region of the country where bananas are plentiful, and thus have received with many meals petit bananas, my favorite. I have such a craving for them now and it is the end of the trip so I hope I am able to find them at home.
It was Kassa chicken for dinner with rice and once I finished the meal with Steph and Zach, being the only one wanting dessert I joined Ben, Drew, Kathryn, Tessa, and Kevin for their meal and crepe au sucre.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Class was this morning at nine o’clock and before the final presentation began I managed to enjoy a breakfast which included more than baguettes and the irresistible saccharine mango preserves. Hard-boiled eggs, sugary sweet croissants, fresh fruit, and a plethora of other options were spread across the three tables of the main restaurant. I turned in my final journal entries and headed to the pool area where we intended to meet for our class session.

After class we headed to Bekai’s village, our head driver and guide for the trip. We stopped briefly for lunch in the bush, fresh baguettes and amazing Gouda cheese along with Coca-Cola Light. I donned my eau de deet one more time and once we arrived at the Bamana village I was startled awake by the sound of gunfire and a large welcome. For the next four hours we were participants in drumming and chimerical dance. Yes, I didn’t escape from my trip without moving to the rhythm and pulse of the djembe. Once we were given four chickens as a welcome and exhausted from the festivities we offered our clothes, books, pens, medical kits, watches, and other items we didn’t want to transport home, an hour of negotiations began where Jerry explained the gifts and our desire to impart them to the village community. Following the conciliation it was time to ask for the road and take our leave. In another extended discussion we were finally permitted to leave and we returned to Bamako and the congestion of the city.

Along the drive the rainy season made its presence once again, one of the hugest, most intense rainbows I’ve ever seen graced the landscape before the torrent began. It reminded me of the ones I’ve seen in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean and in South Africa. Back at the Mande Hotel Steph and I removed our flip flops and what was an initial scurry of footprints soon turned to a slower pace as we realized it was practically impossible to get to our room without being utterly drenched. We arrived from the gravel paths at the pool bar and paused under its canopy, shivering in the chilly rain. We must have both looked at each other in realization of the ridiculous situation. Soon Stephanie had left her bag on the table and jumped victoriously into the pool. As we were planning on showers before dinner anyway, I too leapt into the warm waters. In my brown dress I found comfort in the warmth of the water, the rain beating the surface heavily.

In a matter of minutes Ben and Jamie had joined us in the pool and we spent a good half an hour assimilating the events of the day and admiring the landscape, the Niger River just opposite the cement of the pool area. We ended our swim, three of the hotel staff admiring us the entire time, and shivered the remainder of the way to our rooms for warm showers. Unfortunately, Drew caught up with us and was quite disappointed in missing out on the adventure.

After my enjoyable but swift shower I joined the others for our farewell dinner at Pili Pili once again. The food was incredible and while I didn’t take my camera several good photos were taken that I plan on getting from the group photo box. Back at the Mande Hotel I made the final preparations on my luggage for the next morning and found myself ready for sleep.

Tomorrow we meet at nine thirty to go to the Air France building in Bamako for our early check-in. We will leave our checked luggage there and receive all of our boarding passes and seat assignments. Once we return to the Mande late morning I plan on posting my final blog entry before heading home. I’ll pay my bill for the meals at the Mande and with the remaining Malian francs take a visit to the gift shop.

We plan on leaving for the airport around eight o’clock so I will spend the afternoon by the pool relaxing and enjoying the last few hours with the friends I have made in the group. I look forward to my return home and will post one last blog on my homecoming. It has been an incredible, unbelievably extraordinary experience. I feel like it won’t be long until I have composed some list reminiscent of Semester at Sea – 100 days, 2,400 hours, 144,000 minutes, 8,640,000 seconds, 16 countries, 4 continents, 26 cities, 11 flights, 2 catamarans, 1 train ride, 8 hours stuck on a bus in Japan! Only this time Drew in West Africa: Mali has left me 26 days, 624 hours, 37,440 minutes, 2,246,400 seconds, 3 countries, 3 continents, six flights, and ten hours in a Land Cruiser to Timbuktu richer and more content as a person. From Mali, Au Revoir!

Old Segou

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Last night Steph, Zach and I spent several hours conversing and goofing off. I had a horrible migraine prior to dinner and while waiting for it to subside took some Excedrin migraine, the first batch ending up in the sink thanks to Zach and his clownish demeanor. After our meal we decided to draw get well cards to slide under Amy’s door who went to the hospital and was diagnosed with malaria. My horrendous attempt at a teddy bear and a bumblebee swirling around a lush green landscape with flowers had everyone in tears with laughter. We made a decent dent in Stephanie’s candy supply from home and after Zach managed to get lemon starburst stuck in her hair we kicked him out of the room. In his haste he left his shoes and before his return we thought fair revenge was chewing the rest of the starburst and putting them inside the shoes.

This morning we headed out later than usual for a river cruise of Old Segou. The boat ride was comfortable enough in the shaded covering of the boat although a lovely, large, amazingly awful arachnid started crawling around in the area in front of me. It was a long cruise against the current upriver but we docked at a Bozo fishing village for a brief hiatus. The members of the village know of Jerry through stories about his visits in the past, although he hasn’t visited in years. It was quite the welcome with dancing, shouting, jubilation, and whistles. I’m not sure any of us knew the purpose but we all sat down in the chairs offered under the shade of a large baobab. Conversation was translated and we were officially welcomed. I’m told if I return in ten years chances are they will remember my visit and welcome me once again as a friend. The small children wore beaded necklaces and strands around their waist and were generally quiet and well behaved. This was clearly not an area populated by tourists.

Old Segou was somewhat disappointing for such an excursion. The fiery heat of the day had sweat cascading from my tanned flesh and even in the chief’s house the darkened interior was barely comfortable. The views from the roof of the mosque were beautiful and it was interesting to view the burial of Biton Coulibaly, the founder of the royal Bambara in Segou.

The cruise back to Segou was uneventful, though the breeze was nonexistent. We docked along the pier where women were laying out their laundry on the incline of the banks to dry. Before returning to the hotel we stopped at a restaurant where I enjoyed Moroccan couscous, the flavors a welcome change from the Byblos menu.

After an hour of relaxation at the hotel we met once again for class. I gave a ten minute presentation on a souvenir purchase, my Akua-ba as the Kanaga mask is already packed, and indulged in some pasta for dinner. I have to finish packing for tomorrow morning when we depart really early for Bamako.

Segou

Friday, August 1, 2008

The clouds dotting the skyline this morning announced the presence of the rainy season once again. It wasn’t long before the wind began rustling the leaves of the garden and we hauled our luggage down to the street to be loaded in time for the fastening of a large tarp. Goodbyes with the Lebanese family were prolonged and bittersweet but the bus finally drove away from the Byblos and Sevare headed toward Segou.

After a restroom stop in the bush and several hours of attempting sleep we arrived at a place for lunch. Once under the canopy of the restaurant the sky became dark in a matter of minutes and the deluge began. The chicken and frites were enjoyable as always, however getting a bit too familiar as a meal, and we clogged back through the muddy red dirt to the bus for the rest of the drive. While the windows had been shut prior to the downpour, there appeared to have been several leaks in the ceiling of the bus, one above my seat. My seat was the only one drenched completely and I sat there for two and a half more hours before arriving at the Hotel Independence with clothes soaked clear through to my skin. The driver also had to leave his window open to prevent the bus windows from fogging and I happened to be in the direct line of fire with the hammering rain. Thus, I was drenched both from behind and in front, an unpleasant journey I would rather not repeat.

Because of the heavy torrential afternoon we had to cancel our stop with the bogolan dyers in San and continued on to the hotel. Once at the hotel our luggage was removed from the bus, the rain having stopped. Of course, the tarp barely served its function and everything is relatively soaked. Most of my stuff is in Ziploc or clear bags of some sort so my suitcase seemed fine and my carry-on while completely drenched had everything protected. My messenger bag I carry during the day was with me on the bus, but in my sodden situation had become damp as well. My journal, passport and yellow book, even my money is quite soggy.

After dinner I went to see a live band with Zach, Stephanie, Ben, and Kathryn. The music was fantastic and it was great to witness Malian music in a local setting. I was extremely exhausted and ready for sleep once I returned to the hotel.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

This morning, due to yet another hammering storm in the middle of the night we altered our plans once again. We ventured to the bogolan dyers of Ndommo instead of taking the river cruise of Old Segou. Tomorrow we will go on the river, hopefully after the intensity of the sun has dried the mucky mud-spattered earth.

The bogolan dyers were incredible. We spent nearly three hours watching the process of basilan, bogolan, and gala and learning about the natural plants utilized in the dyes. We were all given the chance of painting a piece ourselves and I have to admit mine isn’t too shabby. Afterwards, of course, there was time to purchase some of their products which after getting some money exchanged this morning I was able to spend a generous amount.

This afternoon we are venturing back into town to visit a rug producer. It sounds interesting, but at this point I would love to just take a nap and jump in the pool. It is extremely hot today!

Tomorrow I have to give a five to ten minute presentation on a souvenir purchase I have made on the trip. And as my Kanaga mask is already packed to perfection I am going to choose the Akua-ba because it is interesting to find these wooden fertility dolls in Mali, as elsewhere in the world, when they are utilized in Ghana by women. I have a bit of journaling for my class to finish as well and hopefully tonight I can spend time getting these tasks completed.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

After the sandstorm and subsequent cloudburst Stephanie and I headed to the Cyber Café. It was nice to get messages from home and send news of my adventures in the pays de Dogon. Upon our return to the hotel the leatherworker was waiting outside with my special order. I paid the remainder of the cost and was thrilled to have a beautiful piece of craftsmanship expressly specialized at my request.

I ordered pasta for dinner and after eating the entire plateful I went up to my room exhausted and ready for sleep. Tomorrow morning we visit another weaver. The remainder of the afternoon is at our leisure and I will doubtless spend some of that time situating my luggage. I wish I knew if I should pack the Kanaga mask in the bottom now or hand carry until Bamako when I do my final packing of the luggage.

Thursday, July 31, 2008

It was satisfying to have those same familiar baguettes and mango preserves for breakfast after being in Dogon country. I finally wore my safari shirt dress and it was nice to have something still unworn at this point in the trip. Everyone has told me I look so beautiful and I feel like duchess of the Dogon with quite the sun-kissed glow. At nine thirty we departed for the weavers, walking quite a distance in the blaze of the sun.

The weavers come from north of Timbuktu and are a sub-group of the Fulani. It is a busy time of year for them as they receive many orders for traditional wedding gifts. Thus, they had a small selection of work to sell, only one blanket which I wasn’t quick enough to nab myself. I bought four thick strips with floating weft designs, two Bamana inspired and one Fulani. They will make nice table runners or wall hangings and come from what is reputed to be the best weavers of the Fulani group, minus those of Guimbe.

Stephanie and I walked to the gas station nearby because we had heard they had large cans of Pringles. We were successful in our purchase and even bought a package of hazelnut cream wafers for something sweet. The rest of the day is pretty much at out leisure although there is an option to go back into Mopti I doubt I will venture back into the city at this point. I have to do some major reorganization of my luggage so I will take my time with that task.

I gave the hotel three skirts to wash this morning and press. I haven’t washed these three myself because I knew they would take longer to dry and because they would turn out extremely wrinkly. The hotel will press them and I will have just enough outfits to finish off my trip without doing anymore laundry.

Our final papers are due September 5th and I am thankful for a decent timeframe in which to accomplish them. It will most likely take some time to get these classes transferred as graduate credit. I know I will have to get the papers finished relatively quickly with my work schedule and the comps in the first week of the semester. I don’t want to be finishing papers while taking the exams at the same time.

The afternoon, like so many things during my trip, was completely different than I originally planned. I finished my genius packing scheme for the Kanaga mask, utilizing the remainder of my bubble wrap around the corners and joints and dirty clothes folded in strips and wrapped around the frame. Skirts I am no longer going to wear were layered underneath and around the mask to create a barrier. I will feel a little more comfortable with a few pieces of bogolan textiles layered in as well, but I think it will be relatively safe.

Stephanie decided to return to Aly Cisse’s to gather more information for her final paper and so I decided to join her because I find both Aly and the beads absolutely incredible. Kevin, a PhD student, and Tessa, a student and friend of Jerry’s, also went along for the adventure. Jerry accompanied us to Cisse’s residence and once again I was back in the small room with the array of multicolored strands of beadwork. His place was one of the places I truly enjoyed, thus it wasn’t hard to find a few more must-haves in my once in a lifetime experience. I added a bronze Senufo strand and two Fulani wedding necklaces to my already previously purchased merchandise. Aly went into great detail about many of the beads, even archaeologically recovered beads and beadwork no longer found anywhere else. It was truly a moment I will never forget.

After leaving Aly Cisse’s we went to a friend of Jerry’s, Abdoulaye, who collects real African art that has actually been utilized. There were two small chi wara masks, cap and all, with an incredible patina. However, I knew I could never afford either so I just relished in the moment of being able to touch and admire their exquisite features.

We returned to the Byblos where the family had invited us to dinner, which means a free meal. My purchases from earlier have depleted my wallet more than I expected. I only have about eighty five dollars for food and bogolan during the rest of the trip. Jerry said we will have an opportunity to change money over in Segou so I will change a little more money so I feel like I have enough for the remainder. I am still coming home with way more money than I imagined so I don’t mind changing additional into Malian francs.

Dinner was fabulous, cucumber salad and onion pizza as appetizers, bizarre I know, with a Lebanese meal to follow. The lamb, potatoes, tomatoes, and rice were delicious and the crepes to afterwards absolutely incredible with an orange filling and lots of sugar.

Tomorrow I return to the Hotel Independence and I am assuming we will stop at San to see the bogolan dyers. I cannot wait to watch the process and purchase some of these beautiful textiles. I am also looking forward to relaxing for a little while by their pool.