Segou

Friday, August 1, 2008

The clouds dotting the skyline this morning announced the presence of the rainy season once again. It wasn’t long before the wind began rustling the leaves of the garden and we hauled our luggage down to the street to be loaded in time for the fastening of a large tarp. Goodbyes with the Lebanese family were prolonged and bittersweet but the bus finally drove away from the Byblos and Sevare headed toward Segou.

After a restroom stop in the bush and several hours of attempting sleep we arrived at a place for lunch. Once under the canopy of the restaurant the sky became dark in a matter of minutes and the deluge began. The chicken and frites were enjoyable as always, however getting a bit too familiar as a meal, and we clogged back through the muddy red dirt to the bus for the rest of the drive. While the windows had been shut prior to the downpour, there appeared to have been several leaks in the ceiling of the bus, one above my seat. My seat was the only one drenched completely and I sat there for two and a half more hours before arriving at the Hotel Independence with clothes soaked clear through to my skin. The driver also had to leave his window open to prevent the bus windows from fogging and I happened to be in the direct line of fire with the hammering rain. Thus, I was drenched both from behind and in front, an unpleasant journey I would rather not repeat.

Because of the heavy torrential afternoon we had to cancel our stop with the bogolan dyers in San and continued on to the hotel. Once at the hotel our luggage was removed from the bus, the rain having stopped. Of course, the tarp barely served its function and everything is relatively soaked. Most of my stuff is in Ziploc or clear bags of some sort so my suitcase seemed fine and my carry-on while completely drenched had everything protected. My messenger bag I carry during the day was with me on the bus, but in my sodden situation had become damp as well. My journal, passport and yellow book, even my money is quite soggy.

After dinner I went to see a live band with Zach, Stephanie, Ben, and Kathryn. The music was fantastic and it was great to witness Malian music in a local setting. I was extremely exhausted and ready for sleep once I returned to the hotel.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

This morning, due to yet another hammering storm in the middle of the night we altered our plans once again. We ventured to the bogolan dyers of Ndommo instead of taking the river cruise of Old Segou. Tomorrow we will go on the river, hopefully after the intensity of the sun has dried the mucky mud-spattered earth.

The bogolan dyers were incredible. We spent nearly three hours watching the process of basilan, bogolan, and gala and learning about the natural plants utilized in the dyes. We were all given the chance of painting a piece ourselves and I have to admit mine isn’t too shabby. Afterwards, of course, there was time to purchase some of their products which after getting some money exchanged this morning I was able to spend a generous amount.

This afternoon we are venturing back into town to visit a rug producer. It sounds interesting, but at this point I would love to just take a nap and jump in the pool. It is extremely hot today!

Tomorrow I have to give a five to ten minute presentation on a souvenir purchase I have made on the trip. And as my Kanaga mask is already packed to perfection I am going to choose the Akua-ba because it is interesting to find these wooden fertility dolls in Mali, as elsewhere in the world, when they are utilized in Ghana by women. I have a bit of journaling for my class to finish as well and hopefully tonight I can spend time getting these tasks completed.